Please note this is a raw pigment intended to be dispersed into a liquid medium to make paints. Our raw pigments are not meant for use in cosmetics and are not cosmetic grade. Certain pigments disperse more easily than others in certain liquid mediums. For those difficult to disperse into a liquid of your choice, they will need to be ground by a muller or a mortar and pestle into the medium.
Safety note: Handle all dry pigments with care. Work slowly to avoid generating airborne dust and wear a dust mask for extra protection. Also avoid getting the dust all over your hands. Latex gloves are good at providing skin protection without "getting in the way".
This is a synthetic blue pigment, a cool brilliant blue with a tilt towards green. Its full name is "Phthalocyanine Blue". It is also an organic pigment, like Phthalo Green. Very deep rich blues like this tend to look quite dark when in a crystal clear mylar envelope (see picture). Milori blue and Prussian blue are the same way. This color has enormous covering power, tinting strength, and lightfastness. It can easily overpower a color mix if too much is added. It shares high stability with Phthalo green. Due to its stability, phthalo blue is also used in inks, coatings, and many plastics. The pigment is insoluble and has no tendency to migrate in the material. Synonyms are: monastral blue, phthalo blue, helio blue, thalo blue, Winsor blue, phthalocyanine blue, C.I. Pigment Blue 15:2, Copper phthalocyanine blue, PB-15, PB-36, C.I. 74160. One source (see below) points out how well organic pigments mix and cites phthalo and hansa as making "incredibly clean mixtures". See further below for what makes an organic pigment special.
It may not look it in the picture but phthalo blue is considered a bright, high intensity color. The CAMEO database of art materials says { http://cameo.mfa.org/wiki/Phthalocyanine_blue } : "A synthetic organic colorant composed of copper phthalocyanine that was first synthesized in 1933 by R.P.Linstead. In 1935, copper phthalocyanine was marketed as a paint pigment called Monastral blue [ICI]. The organic colorant is usually adsorbed on an aluminum hydrate base to form a deep blue color. Other colors are achieved by varying the formulation, i.e., chlorinated copper phthalocyanine produces a green colorant. Phthalocyanine blue is a permanent pigment which is unaffected by light, heat, and chemicals. It is used as a colorant in inks, enamels, plastics, paints, chalks, leather, pencils, and photographs. In industry, phthalocyanine blue has replaced all other blue pigments for use in coatings because it is lightfast as well as resistant to chemicals and clumping."
This is a good article on "old" color mixing and the new theory of color mixing: { http://www.justpaint.org/color-mixing-you-cant-get-it-unless-you-do-it/} : "The broad generalization is that Mineral pigments (inorganic) are typically mined from the earth such as the umbers, siennas and ochres. These pigments were augmented at the beginning of the industrial age with the advent of industrially produced mixed metal colors, such as cobalts, cadmiums, zinc and a wide range of manufactured oxide pigments. These pigments are typically more opaque and when mixed together, yield a lower chroma mixture. The Modern (organic) pigments (Quinacridrones, Phthalos and Hansas) are more transparent, have higher chroma and most importantly, when mixed together create incredibly clean mixtures. This is probably the greatest difference between this Modern Theory Color Mixing Set and a classical set. Although a range of Cadmiums in the yellows, oranges and reds will get you incredibly intense and brilliant opaque colors, they tend to mix towards much more muted tones and continued mixing with these colors tends to go towards mud very quickly."
"Organic" + [some color] often means a dye instead of a pigment. Dyes are usually considered transparent, while pigments are opaque. But not always. Some colorants can be semi-transparent and can actually function as dyes to some extent. BASF has a page I like that both cuts to the chase and also gives some technical details on pigments and dyes: https://www.dispersions-pigments.basf.com/portal/basf/ien/dt.jsp?setCursor=1_561069 "...a pigment is any finely divided insoluble black, white or colored solid material...Pigments are always incorporated by simple physical mixing with the medium, and it is this feature that distinguishes them from dyes...dyes are soluble in the media in which they are incorporated and pigments are not...Pigments are classified as either organic or inorganic...Organic pigments are based on carbon chains and carbon rings...Inorganic pigments, chemical compounds not based on carbon, are usually metallic salts." Although organic pigments have some of the qualities of dyes, such as inferior lightfastness, "Phthalo blue is highly stable, being resistant to alkali, acids, solvents, heat, and ultraviolet radiation [UV]". That's from Wikipedia. The Winsor-Newton site (which of course calls this by a synonym "Winsor Blue", says { http://www.winsornewton.com/na/discover/articles-and-inspiration/spotlight-on-winsor-blue } : "Winsor Blue is made of an organic synthetic pigment: copper phthalocyanine. Alternative names are Phthalo Blue, Monastral and Intense Blue. It is a deep and intense blue which approaches black in mass tone and has either a red or green undertone... Winsor Blue was created in the mid 1930s, and was launched by Winsor & Newton in 1938 (Winsor Green followed a few years later). It comes from the phthalocyanine family of colours which were first chemically synthesized in the late 1920s. Many new synthetic organic pigments were being discovered around this time, however only three were universally accepted for their artist quality in the 1950s: Phthalocyanine Blue, Phthalocyanine Green and Alizarin Crimson"-
I'll do my best to meet these shipping estimates, but can't guarantee them. Actual delivery time will depend on the shipping method you choose.
Customs and import taxes
Buyers are responsible for any customs and import taxes that may apply. I'm not responsible for delays due to customs.
Payment Options
Secure options
Accepts Etsy gift cards
Returns & Exchanges
Request a cancellation within: 0 hours of purchase
I don't accept returns or exchanges
But please contact me if you have any problems with your order.
Frequently Asked Questions
International Shipping
We're sorry, but at this time we do not ship internationally.
Custom and personalized orders
If you would like a smaller or larger quantity of a raw material, click the "Request a custom order" button and tell us how much you would like. Or just contact us and let us know what you'd like. We'll get back to you ASAP.
The cost in my cart seems too high, what can I do?
This problem usually occurs with multiple items. We have free shipping on many of our items. In your cart items will have the sum of all embedded shipping costs. If you place an order for 3 or more "FreeShip" items, you will receive a "rebate" for the excess shipping. The more items you have the greater the shipping refund will be. You can also message us to ask what the total cost of your order will be when excess shipping is refunded before you purchase.
Or, if you see "Request a Custom Order" or "Message Seller", you can request a custom order and your items will be put in a custom listing with the correct shipping. You would purchase it like any other listing.
Technical Questions
If you have a technical question about an item we've listed, please don't hesitate to ask. We enjoy helping people out with a material or a process.
We give anecdotal information in our listings if we have any. If you disagree with it or think we're being inaccurate or misleading please let us know that, too.
If there are discrepancies in any of our listings let us know, we make mistakes like everybody and we'd like to be set straight and get those mistakes corrected.