Please note this is a raw pigment intended to be dispersed into a liquid medium to make paints. Our raw pigments are not meant for use in cosmetics and are not cosmetic grade. Certain pigments disperse more easily than others in certain liquid mediums. For those difficult to disperse into a liquid of your choice, they will need to be ground by a muller or a mortar and pestle into the medium.
Safety note: Handle all dry pigments with care. Work slowly to avoid generating airborne dust and wear a dust mask for extra protection. Also avoid getting the dust all over your hands. Latex gloves are good at providing skin protection without "getting in the way".
This is the Red Fluorescent pigment. This listing is for a fluorescent pigment, also referred to nowadays as a neon pigment. It is an organic color (although less common inorganic fluorescent pigments do exist). Briefly stated, fluorescent pigments are produced by combining organic fluorescening dyes with polymers (plastics such as polyester) and then grinding the hardened polymer into fine powders. This stabilizes the dye, and the combination of fluorescent dye and polymer becomes a "pigment" stable enough to be combined with other plastics, paints, inks, and raw pigment powders, which is what this listing is for. We carry several fluorescent pigments. They are bold colors that stand out in ordinary light as brighter than most other colors in an incandescent environment and that also "fluoresce" in a blacklight environment. Fluorescent pigments may be found in highlighter pens, cosmetics, paintings, product packaging, safety clothing, safety markers and signs, and are used in many other scientific, medical, and industrial applications (flaw detection in metals, for example).
Here is some background terminology and definitions that will help you understand what these pigments can and cannot do: "Luminescence" is the encompassing term for the color effects of the terms below. "Photoluminescence" is a type of "Luminescence". "Fluorescence" is a type of "Photoluminescence". "Phosphorescence" is another type of "Photoluminescence".
"Fluorescence" is a kind of "Photoluminescence" which is a kind of "luminescence" (cold-body radiation) and is defined as the emission of light by any means other than heat. "Incandescence" is the emission of light by heat. Photoluminescence is the absorption of photons (light particles) and the re-emission of light. There are several other types of luminescence; by chemical reactions, by minerals, by electrical energy, and by mechanical stress. Under the heading of photoluminescence are two kinds of luminescence that are most relevant to the arts and crafts world. One is fluorescence which is what this listing is about and another is called phosphorescence which is what another listing in our shop is about. The two are both similar and different in practical effects. The similarity appears mostly when both are viewed under black light (or UV; black light actually has a wider spectrum and is technically "UV-A" light).
The main difference between fluorescent and phosphorescent pigments is that phosphorescent pigments will give off light in the dark after absorbing incandescent or UV light. It's the "glow-in-the-dark" phenomenon. Fluorescent pigments will only give off light in the light. The light they give off is bright and bold, ie "neon". In the dark they do not give off light. In blacklight they give off a light that is similar to phosphorescent light; it is a strong "glowing" light. Another difference between the two is that phosphorescent pigments are inorganic while fluorescent pigments are most often organic. Inorganic pigments are almost always more lightfast than organic pigments. Fluorescent pigments will fade in UV light from sunlight in a shorter time period. They are also not as resistant to heat. Also, Fluorescent pigments immediately give off light they've absorbed (at a longer wavelength, and lower energy than that absorbed). It is a "fast" phenomenon. Phosphorescent pigments do not immediately give off the light they absorb. It's a slower phenomenon, both of absorption and of re-emission (which may occur for up to several hours at a lower intensity after the light source is turned off).
The manufacturers of both fluorescent and phosphorescent pigments advise not to intermix different colors because of unpredictable results. Don't mix fluorescent red with fluorescent yellow for example (it is OK to mix non-fluorescent with fluorescent colors). I wanted to see for myself what would happen if you did intermix them so I did some experiments and verified that you will indeed get unexpected results if intermix them:
I test mixed equal parts of blue and red fluorescent powders. What I got was not at all bright and neon. The bright fluorescent effect was destroyed. The resultant powder was dull and grayish. But I was surprised that it was still a VIOLET/grayish color. (I remember some sources stating that fluorescents and/or phosphorescents were additive colors and didn't follow the mixing results of subtractive colors where blue+yellow=green. Since fluorescent pigments can be organic or inorganic, perhaps subtractive/additive depends on that organic/inorganic chemistry). I mixed the violet/gray powder with epoxy. Surprise! I got a completely unexpected color: a rich chocolate brown with reddish undertones. Then I viewed the powders and epoxy mixes under black light and, once again an unexpected result: the rich brown color of the epoxy mix was now the color of the powders before being mixed with epoxy, without the gray; a much lighter, brighter glowing violet. The gray/violet powder not mixed with epoxy was also a richer lighter violet, not grayish. Perhaps the brown epoxy would've been different under normal light if I'd varied the proportions of blue and red, or varied the concentration of powder to epoxy. I tried one more combination test with blue and yellow fluorescent pigments. This time there were no great surprises except for the fact that the colors again acted like subtractive pigments. Equal parts of blue and yellow gave a rich deep green. It wasn't fully "neon" but it wasn't at all grayish. When mixed with the same amount of epoxy, it was not a strange brown but exactly what I'd expect if these were non-fluorescent pigments, a nice rich green. When viewed under black light, both the powder alone and powder mixed with epoxy appeared a lighter and brighter glowing green. To sum up, if you try these pigments you'll get predictable results if you don't intermix them. Intermixing will be something of an adventure if you're trying to get interesting effects under black light, but will almost certainly be disappointing if you want to retain the bright "neon" effect when viewed in ordinary light
Here's a website that describes the development of fluorescent pigments, their history, and how in 1957 a basic manufacturing process still in use today was developed: https://www.acs.org/content/acs/en/education/whatischemistry/landmarks/dayglo.html : Fluorescent dyes and pigments were developed in fits and starts between the 1930's and 1950's. In the 1940's they were used in WWII for markers and signaling and were called “daylight fluorescents". They later became known as "DayGlo Fluorescents". Advertising and packaging were the first fields to use them in large quantities. "In 1934 Joe and Bob Switzers established their first company, the Fluor-S-Art Co...Joe sold a printer on the idea of producing fluorescent posters illuminated in theater lobbies by black light...The Switzers also introduced fluorescent penetrants that...are still used today. Applied to metal parts, they settle into unseen cracks, and show these defects under black light...In 1946, the brothers founded Switzer Brothers, Inc. (which later became the current Day-Glo Color Corp)... By the 1960s, fluorescent colors had become ubiquitous with the emergence of psychedelic posters, clothing, toys, and accessories of the 1960s. From hippies to Pop artists, a new fluorescent identity had emerged in Day-Glo’s fluorescent palette."-
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