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The "Quick Start" card for mixing concrete or mortar: One very old and traditional ratio for making concrete is 1 part portland cement, 2 parts sand, 3 parts "gravel", and 1/2 part water. That's usually understood to be volume, not weight. The amount of water is always variable and is said to consist of the minimum you can get away with to make a thick, pasty mix. Over adding water will make weak concrete. The water is always added after the dry ingredients are mixed. For mortar (you could call it fine grain concrete) a traditional ratio is 1 part portland cement, 3 parts sand, with 10 to 20% of the portland cement being a replacement of hydrated lime. Mortar has more variations than concrete because it depends on whether it's used for assembling block, brick, or stone ("masonry mortar") or as a stand alone fine grained concrete. The lime would be omitted if you're using it for the latter case. For the former case the amount of lime is highly variable depending on how "plastic" the mortar must be, and often it's a personal preference of the mason. The amount of water to use for mortar is usually omitted since it is highly dependant on the moisture content of the sand. It should be added last to make a just workable mix, no more. As with concrete, a mix with too much water will be weak. Note that many people call concrete/mortar "cement" which is confusing, since the actual "cement" is the portland cement portion of a concrete/mortar mix. For a more detailed instructions.
If you have never made concrete or mortar, please contact us with a general description of what you're trying to achieve and we'll try to give you specific instructions to help. There are so many ways portland cement can be used that we can't give instructions to cover all applications.
Please note that portland cement alone will not make concrete, mortar, or "cement" without other ingredients like sand, gravel, or other aggregates. Also, for casting small objects, it can be tricky to make it "compact" and strong enough without additives like metakaolin or an acrylic polymer. Do some reading on how to mix it and also search on "pozzolan" for tips on making it very strong. If that advice seems like too much work, you might try a gypsum cement as a portland cement substitute. It only requires water and knowledge for making plaster (water/cement ratio and other tips). Do some checking on the web for what's involved or check our listings for gypsum cements which contain basic instructions.
This is 'regular' gray portland cement. The kind you'd find if you went to Home Depot (although they may have 2 kinds, a regular 'regular' and a high early strength 'regular' variety). It's gray in color. There are actually many grades of the gray portland cement that vary somewhat in physical properties. This is a very common material, you can buy it in many places and it's relatively cheap. But for people who don't want lug a 40 to 90 lb bag home, and have no place to put it anyway, this is a listing that lets you try it out in a small quantity. There is a Wiki article on this: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Portland_cement
This is one of a series of listings I'm making for materials that can be used to enhance concrete and other cementitious mixes. I decided I wanted to migrate away from using polymers like epoxy, urethane, polyester, and other 'resins' for making castings. One reason was the high cost of resins and another was nuisance/safety factor of using them and inevitably the organic solvents you have to use to clean up drips and spills. Over the years I'd already used gypsum cements as casting materials, but their physical properties (when cured) weren't always to my liking. Their surfaces are kind of 'dead' unless you add a coating, and they are brittle (low tensile strength). I'd also tried using concrete/mortar mixtures and was even more unhappy with their cured properties. The properties I wanted from a casting material were: high hardness and tensile strength (above any existing cement), whiteness (so I could add pigment to make it any color I wanted), and a degree of translucency (about like marble). I started researching and discovered some things that led me to believe I could formulate my own casting material. Here are some of those things: New gypsum cements that I wasn't familiar with, refractory cements I'd forgotten about, a casting system already formulated that was close to what I wanted: Forton MG, the fact that you can use elements of Forton outside the Forton MG system, new concrete types I wasn't familiar with, new concrete additives I wasn't familiar with, the concrete countertop industry, pozzolanic materials I wasn't familiar with.
I was aiming for a very specific results (some translucency, etc) and because the ingredients chosen for the particular results you're after can be very different from mine, it's impractical to go into any more detail because the interactions between ingredients are just too complex. If what you're trying to do varies by even a little from what I was trying to do, it's too difficult to predict what will work and what won't. I spent 6 months making hundreds of test mixes. I almost finished, but something else intervened and I had to put the project on hold. I haven't done anything further with this project for 5 or 6 months. What I want to do is leave you with the links I've provided to information on particular materials, so you'll have a handy means of doing the research into whichever material I'm listing yourself. And there is a wealth of sources about these materials on the internet above and beyond what I'm citing. (Please note that I have other materials in my shop which could fit into this 'cementitious mixes' category. To locate them do a shop search on "Colloidal", "Thixo", "Cab-o-sil", "Cement", "Kaolin", and "Calcium": Calcium Chloride is a cement accelerator and Calcium Sulfate Dihydrate (raw gypsum) is a pozzolan).-
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This problem usually occurs with multiple items. We have free shipping on many of our items. In your cart items will have the sum of all embedded shipping costs. If you place an order for 3 or more "FreeShip" items, you will receive a "rebate" for the excess shipping. The more items you have the greater the shipping refund will be. You can also message us to ask what the total cost of your order will be when excess shipping is refunded before you purchase.
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Very good packaging, Good quality, perfect for what I need thank you so much!!! I will buy again from this seller!!! ❣️
Nouhad El chamaa
Jun 16, 2024
Exactly what I needed for my project
Janie Martinez
May 14, 2024
Great stuff arrived quite quickly
scottbarnett10019
Nov 6, 2023
Exactly what I needed when I needed it. This is a genius idea that allowed me to experiment and now I don't think I will ever bother with a full bag of cement again!
Rustic Home
Mar 5, 2023
It's WONDERFUL to be able to purchase a small quantity of portland cement rather than having to deal with a 50 lb. bag. The shipping was free and "lightning fast." What's not to LOVE!!!!! Thank You.