FreeShip- Liver of Sulphur Metals Patina, XL Gel, Liquid Concentrate, 12.5 Gram- (Prompt rebate on orders with 3 or more FreeShip items!)

$11.25

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This is a small quantity for testing before purchasing the larger jars from the company that makes this product. But even this small quantity may be enough for your needs. Just one teaspoon of this makes 12 oz of Liver of Sulphur solution. The concentration can be varied to get variations of color in patinas. Add to hot water for maximum effect. This has a much longer shelf life than the more common powdered liver of sulphur, there's no inhalation danger that comes with using the powder, and its not flammable. It will color a variety of metals, such as silver, copper, bronze, and metal clay. It works especially well with silver.

The metal patina, LOS, Liver of sulfur (or sulphur), is one of those old materials brought out of obscurity by artists and craftsmen in the 20th century. It is usually sold as a powdered material consisting of mixtures of potassium sulfides and sulfates (which should should be handled with great care, ideally outdoors under a porch, as should all metal patinas, read the other safety advice further down).
As Wikipedia notes, many patinas are more effective and permanent if used in more dilute solutions, which also has the benefit of making them safer to use. As they say:
"if the concentration of the solution is too strong, the oxidation process will proceed too quickly and the layer of patina thus created will tend to flake away. The best results are usually obtained by using more dilute solutions and allowing the patina to build more slowly but more securely, and, for silver, keeping the solution just under its boiling point." [The following part is CRUCIAL]: "Lastly, it is critical that the metal surface be extremely clean, as clean as would be necessary to electroplate the same surface. Even small amounts of oil on the metal such as that produced by handling without gloves will be sufficient to protect the metal surface from oxidation."
Leaving metal immersed too long in the pickle bath can lead to flaking. Better is dilute solution immersion, rinsing, and then repeating. Brushing works for localizing effects."

LOS excels at blackening silver very quickly. For most metals you will get browns and blacks but other subtle colors are possible especially on silver or its alloys. Here is a list of the metals which are colored by it:
Fine silver, Sterling silver, Argentium™ sterling silver:
All can give these colors: Straw gold, green, pink, blue, purple, gray and black.
Copper, Bronze, Brass:
All can give these colors: Browns to blacks.
Gold:
No color to pale brown depending on karat.
Platinum, Aluminum, Stainless Steel, Niobium, Titanium:
No color.

Here is a good set of tips given by the website (which sells the "XL Cel" brand):
https://www.halsteadbead.com/articles/6-tips-liver-of-sulfur
"
1. How To Set Up Liver of Sulfur
There is not a precise recommended ratio of liver of sulfur per ounce of water, for example. Most metalsmiths have their preferred approximate recipe but generally speaking a tablespoon or so of liquid liver of sulfur per small 8oz crock is plenty. The chemical works best when it is warm or hot so most studios have a small crockpot designated for liver of sulfur. Plugin the crock and heat enough water to cover your piece(s) then fully dissolve liquid or crystal liver of sulfur into the warm water and you are ready to add a jewelry patina. Designate a pair of copper tongs for your patina and pickle station. They will completely blacken in the liver of sulfur. If you choose to use the same tongs for your pickle, you will get large black flakes in the liquid but it will still work just fine.

2. Use The Right Metal
Liver of sulfur works best on silver and copper. It will not work if the silver has an e-coating, anti-tarnish treatment or a plating finish of fine silver, rhodium or gold. Be sure your metal is clean by using pickle or sandpaper and then rinse. Surface contaminants will cause the metal to resist oxidation and effect results. Brass can sometimes be oxidized but results are highly unpredictable. Plan for more trial and error and be prepared to be patient to get the jewelry patina you want.

3. Expect Variation
Many factors cause variability in oxidation. You will see some patinas take on blue, purple or green highlights. Expect some surprises and you will never be disappointed. Also, keep in mind that the larger the surface area the more variation will show. Oxidation is often most effective on textured, stamped or engraved pieces where the whole piece is oxidized and then the surface is polished back to bright or satin which leaves the contrasting dark patina in relief only.

4. Be Safe
While this chemical is a studio mainstay, you should never be cavalier about safety precautions when firing up your crock. Liver of sulfur fumes are harmful to your health and should be avoided. Ensure thorough ventilation - that means much more than a cracked window. The smell is a good indicator of the level of fumes in an area. You may even want to keep your crock outside. Also, avoid leaning over your crock and inhaling right above the liquid where fumes are most intense. It is harmless on your skin though it may stain your skin and clothes.

5. Layer It On
Timing is tricky to master and will depend on the solution intensity and temperature among other things. The best technique is to submerge your piece for a minute or less and then remove it, rinse in clean water and assess results. Repeat until you achieve the desired level of darkness in your patina. This allows you to examine your work and layer on the oxidation for greater stability. Jewelry patinas achieved after a long continuous bath will often flake off the surface.

[Do not do this next step until the solution is cool and preferably "used up" or old. Putting alkaline baking soda in a bath of hot, fresh LOS can cause it to spash out at you and create an outburst of hydrogen sulfide!]

6. Use Proper Disposal
Liver of sulfur can legally go down the drain in most areas as long as it has been neutralized first. That means adding baking soda to the solution until it no longer foams. This may require several rounds of adding baking soda, waiting for foaming to stop and then adding more. It's messy so make sure you are in a large stainless steel sink that won't stain. The diluted liver of sulfur is also an excellent garden fertilizer. Some plants love it and the compound is frequently used in commercial fertilizer products. Just make sure the chemical is sufficiently diluted first.
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LOS is alkaline and consists of mainly potassium polysulfides. Synonyms are potassium polysulfide, hepar sulfuris, sulphurated potash.
Wikipedia has a short but concise article, an excerpt:
"Modern gel forms contain stabilizers that allow the reactivity to last much longer. Liver of sulfur that is kept dry, sealed from air, out of the light, and in a freezer will last many times longer than that kept in any other condition....
The highest quality liver of sulfur in solid form is a dark yellow, almost "liver" colored substance. As it ages and is exposed to air, its potency decreases, it will turn lighter yellow and finally white, at which point its reactivity is negligible." Liver of sulfur decomposes to sulfate of potash and carbonate of potash, neither of which has any value as an oxidizer of metal."
A master formula does not appear to exist and different manufacturers probably have different mixtures. I can find no single hard and fast formulas. As an example of this substance's loose nature, the term "Liver" is taken (from the "Condensed Chemical Dictionary") to mean "a term formally used to characterize compounds containing sulfides"... sulfates, etc. "The word is outmoded and should be avoided". and that's from a 60 year old edition!
As far as a formulation, here's one from a chemistry forum:
"Dissolve 480 grams of Na2S.9H2O in 500 ml of water, add 40 grams of NaOH and 18 grams of sulfur. Stir thoroughly and dilute to 1 liter with water."

Liver of sulphur is aggressive and volatile, especially when heated (which gives the deepest coloration). It will evaporate quickly and give off hydrogen sulfide gas and one batch may last only one day. The evolution of hydrogen sulfide gas ("rotten egg smell") is dangerous if too much is inhaled in enclosed spaces, thus the recommendation to use it on an outside porch or at least a room with open windows and cross ventilation.
Above all, you also should NOT mix it with anything else, especially acids (any pH below 6). Wear nitrile gloves, perfectly clear and large safety masks, aprons, long sleeves and other protective clothing.
These admonitions are given from the viewpoint of industrial users treating larger areas of metal daily, but because we don't have control over how it's used once it's sold, we need to inform you in case you use large quantities in the future. Keep the safety precautions in mind and if you are using only small amounts on jewelry sized pieces you can use it safely. One reason we sell it in only very small quantities is that even the gung-ho would have a hard time causing any lasting damage with the purchase of one or two units of our product.

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Great price and works very well! Thank you!


Fast shipping! This is my first purchase of this kind of product, I can’t wait to try it out.



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